The Jewish Chisinau, for last decade Kishinev fine Europe. There were supermarkets, night clubs, a casino, stoppers in streets et cetera, et cetera. But together with the comfort which has come here something has left, alas, that made once «persons not general expression» a lovely southern city.
Ah, and after all more recently Kishinev became impregnated with a smell of fried pepper, and mistresses on narrow small streets of an old city, widely having opened doors in the summer, were outvoiced with each other, not leaving from close, but such cosy kitchens:
- The madam the Rose! You do not remember, or I did last time фиш with манкой?
- Or I looked on you in pans, Фира? You were today in the market?
And so, under slow and peace conversation without everyones stationary and mobile phones, without скайпа and «аськи» and without the other blessings of the civilisation which have connected continents, but the neighbours who have separated from each other, there was a magical process under the name «dinner cooking». As the Kishinev Jewish women were able to prepare, anybody is not able to prepare more and anywhere. And, valour consisted not in night standing at a plate, and in surpassing the neigbour. Therefore everyone had a secret of stuffed fish, a transparent broth and вермишелевой grandmas to it, a pie-napoleona and caviar from «синеньких». Women, of course, worked, but did not aspire to grow on service: in the head of a corner the family was always put. That the husband was happy with all, children are dressed-are put not worse others, and fed even better.
Yes, special hopes were rested upon children in the Jewish families. Their parents storing genetic memory of the Kishinev pogrom of 1903, about the Holocaust during which time the whole clans remembering Stalin "business of doctors" have disappeared from the person of the earth, all "delights" which have tested latent state антисиметизма a Poststalin epoch, were turned inside out, trying to provide children to all necessary, but constantly inspired to the offsprings, that those should be better than others. In a rare Jewish family was not the piano or violin carefully packed into a case. Taki-yes, ойцера (in inexact transfer about a Yiddish of a handsome man or the clever man) it is necessary to learn to all: if sometime it loses work, can always earn to itself on a bread piece. But not to lose work, the child should, when will grow, to become the chief. For example, the chief engineer. For this purpose it was necessary to study, study and once again to study. At school and after school. To arrive in the Kishinev high schools where on one "percentage" place there were 5 Jews, it was difficult, it is practically impossible. Took almost indiscriminately on hydromeliorative faculty of the Moldavian agricultural institute. This faculty and have nicknamed - Jewish. The lucid minds got to polytechnical institute and university only. To whom did not carry - went to search for good luck in other cities of the USSR, the blessing neither in Baltic, nor on Chukotka, especially, in Ukraine inhabitants of Moldova then were not considered as foreigners. Baby birds took off from a nest and when came back - for ever or on побывку - a little bit hesitated of the parents with their wrong speech where the Yiddish mixed up, Moldavian and Russian, with their provincial sights and manners, with their hypertrophied care about adult already children. There is a joke about Jewish mum to whom the son informs that wishes to marry the elderly negress with three children, to that, homeless. " Anything, lodge at us ", - mum calms." But where we will sleep? "" On our bed. "" But where the daddy will sleep? "" Will lay down on a floor "." And you, mum? "" Ah, whether it is necessary to me much, a sonny? Now here I will lay down and I will die, if only you were happy ". And if that that is exaggerated in this joke, a little.
And the Jewish weddings! Each of them was event of planetary scale. It is unimportant, where they passed - in "abrupt" restaurant "Intourist" or in hardly less "abrupt", but all prestigious restaurant "Кишинэу", or in a usual factory dining room is always was parade of relatives (cousin uncles and three times removed aunts came to the Moldavian capital from Moscow, Leningrad, Lvov and even Saransk - capitals of the Soviet Mordovia) and fashion demonstration. During a deficiency epoch of all in shops wedding tables burst with viands. Sandwiches with red caviar which then it was possible to see only on illustrations of the most popular in housewives "Books about tasty and healthy food" were their ornament. The Place of honour was taken away also to salad "оливье": disappearing under a pseudonym "Capital", it rose пирамидками with carrot slices at tops on snackbars plates. Биточки on-kishinevski on hotter reminded that last third of wedding feast has begun. Well, and soluble Indian coffee and cakes-eclairs or tubules with сливочым a cream hinted, that it's time to go. Not for this purpose ladies sewed to themselves evening dresses (which then and to put on there was no place: on the second wedding to them to go already indecently), not for this purpose many ordered to themselves under dresses underwear in the rare in a city of seamstresses (they sewed without the patent, in-home only to especially checked up persons or "under recommendations"). Danced to упада as also music always was up to standard: almost on all Jewish weddings the well-known Anna Ginzburg - the singer with a surprising velvet voice sang. Perhaps, be born it during other time and in other country, it would become size of a world class. But she lived during Soviet time in совтском Kishinev and was simply national actress - not on a rank, and on popularity degree. Fathers of families fell in love with it on weddings, young men and teenagers, and ladies, собирясь on a visit, gossiped about its novels - valid or imaginary who can understand now it?
The Jewish community - however then this word also was not used - introduced special colour in atmosphere of Kishinev. Words and not to transfer, in what it was expressed. In all. In хабитусе cities, in speech, in air, in humour, in traditions - well, really, in all. It did not disappear even then when in the end of eightieth-beginning ninetieth at OVIR crowds driving off when on platform of railway station every day tens people forever said goodbye pined - who could imagine a situation, what it will be possible so without ceremony to fly to Israel, the USA or Germany by plane, there would be money and the visa? And then this colour has somehow disappeared, was dissolved. In a city there was a Jewish community, some the Jewish organisations, the Jewish religious both secular schools and a kindergarten, even the Jewish higher educational institution - female college, where learn how to become the present keeper of traditions.
Now these traditions чтут, not hesitating. Mark песах and хануку, plant trees on a holiday that-bishvat, dispatch to relatives, friends and acquaintances of a card on rosh-and-shana (the Jewish new year), meet шабат (Saturday), openly go to a synagogue. Мацу in supermarkets it is possible to buy all year long (an another matter, under what price) to have relatives in Israel prestigiously to transfer with someone from комадировочных to Tel Aviv scarce there "Soviet" корвалол or to order to bring a medicine, хумус or crackers for a holiday пурим - all the same what to ask to buy the neigbour a loaf of bread and for you. Now here day of memory of victims of the Holocaust is in public celebrated, in memory of victims of the Kishinev pogrom of 1903 the memorial in park of capital area Skuljanka is established, efforts of the Jewish Welfare fund "Дор ле Дор" put in order the Jewish cemetery. The communal house in city centre is constructed, there are Jewish newspapers, and all кишиневцы are proud of that one of the most visible Israeli politicians Avigdor Liberman has grown and he was born in the Moldavian capital, moreover, here the desired and frequent visitor. In Kishinev Days of the Israeli cinema and клязмерские festivals on which the Jewish musicians from the countries of near and far abroad gather are spent. The Moldavian theatres put plays of the Jewish authors and on the Jewish subjects. And, as before, invite to parties, weddings and birthdays of the Jewish singers. Today the most popular Anna Ginzburg's place has occupied Glory Фарбер, the most talented person who for a long time was training for a new profession from the engineer in the vocalist, let out some the solo albums, known are far outside of Moldova. In a word, the life of the Jewish community - let and not very numerous (today it totals in Kishinev about 20 thousand persons) - boils with might and main, involving in the circulation and representatives of other nationalities. And it is healthy, but...
But all the same it is a pity, that in a shoe workshop in the street Pushkin is not present for a long time the old man-Jew who, filling heel-taps on heels, argued on the politician. Also that ours the neighbour uncle Abrasha who, coming back before holidays from a synagogue, looked to share news, goes now to a synagogue in far Israel. Also that интеллигентнейшая the teacher of initial classes Sofia Ajzikovna - the proprietress of a laundry in any of small American small towns - will not come on September, 1st in 1 class of the Kishinev school. Also that in the market to me already nobody addresses "madam". Also that the youth puts wrong accents not because of strong influence of a Yiddish, and is simple from ignorance. That do not gather elderly дядечки in square before hotel "Moldova" (which, by the way, too already is not present) to play in chess and to philosophise. What is the Jewish person in city streets it is possible to see extremely seldom. Also that now here it any more will not be never.
Julia Semenova (Yudovici),
Photo by Valerii Corcimari.