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The Polish motives, national Polish suit. Of what you think, when choose to yourself clothes in the morning? About a fashion? About style? About a practicality and comfort? Whether it will be observed dress a code if to put on a new fashionable skirt?
2008/09/26
The Polish motives, national Polish suit. Of what you think, when choose to yourself clothes in the morning? About a fashion? About style? About a practicality and comfort? Whether it will be observed dress a code if to put on a new fashionable skirt?
Yes, perhaps, to our ancestors in this respect was much easier. And the choice was less, and of a fashion before an exit in the field somehow was not thought. A practicality - yes, but this requirement has been in advance considered by those unknown fashion designers who have once created an eternal suit: what we packed into jeans people from the future, call national, national.
It is difficult to speak about a national suit of separately taken country. Here now it would be desirable to tell about national Polish clothes, and you rise before a choice about what from sixty suits to tell? Yes, yes, eyes have not brought you: the population of modern Poland on the statistican consists of 98 % of the Poles, however each area, and sometimes and own suits have area. Perhaps to describe, how hard metal ringlets свивались in chain armours enough known силезских knights? What form there were helmets, поножи and charge? Or to describe sheepskin coats of shepherds which warmed the owners slowly overtaking herds on slopes of Tatra mountains? And can tell, how bright tapes twisted on a wind round fair-haired plaits city паненки? Here an ill luck! It is necessary about all gradually.
In 19 century there were some groups of the Poles differing with dialects and some ethnographic features: in the west - великополяне, ленчицане and серадзяне; in the south - малополяне; in Silesia - слензане (слензаки, силезцы); in the northeast - мазуры and вармяки; at coast of Baltic sea - поморяне. Into group малополян entered гурали (the population of mountain areas), краковяне and сандомирцы. Among силезцев poles, силезские гурали and other groups differed. To великополянам concerned куявяне, and to мазурам - курпи. In Pomorze were especially allocated кашубы, keeping specificity of language and culture (sometimes them consider as a special nationality).
Poles concern group of the western Slavs. And though to understand the Polish language happens with some difficulty, and even in general it is impossible, the Polish suits some details are very similar both with Belarus, and with Ukrainian, and to Russian colleagues. Formation of national Polish clothes of different areas of the country was influenced also by Germany, Romania and Lithuania.
Poles rather think much of a heritage of ancestors, in mountain areas till now in especially smart cases put on national clothes. The man's jacket from not bleached wool with manual needlework amazingly looks. The embroidery a silk thread is very similar to similar ornaments of clothes of inhabitants of Carpathians. Trousers from the same wool are decorated in the bottom of a black strip: it is original оберег great-grandfathers from the evil ghosts, transformed nowadays in usual furnish. At a female variant instead of a jacket there is embroidered by a coral or small pearls a waistcoat. Bright colours of a skirt at one sight at them cheer up. The shirt is decorated by an embroidery on a mouth and cuffs. By the way, it is decorated not simply so, and with sense: earlier the clothes carried not only utilitarian sense, but also were оберегом from evil spirit. Embroidered, specially picked up, the ornament protected a neck and a head of the mistress of a suit from all misfortunes. The same function bore both a belt. Подпоясанному and the demon is not terrible. - spoke the ancient. The pattern which now seems to us an elegant ornament, was carried out in strict conformity with ancient поверьями, represented symbols of fertility, riches, abundance and protection have been urged to make happy the person, to make a life of the peasant though little bit easier.
The Krakow suit is original also extended and until now: a female skirt from a fabric in a floret, an apron tulle or linen, over a shirt - the cloth or velvet corsage decorated with gold or silver sewing, metal plates. The man's suit consisted of a shirt with a turn-down collar, trousers in a strip, a dark blue caftan with a rich embroidery. From headdresses - warm fur caps, felt hats. The grandmother of modern peak-caps of the Polish military men is interesting конфедератка. Конфедератку sewed from red cloth, sideways decorated two peacock feathers.
Any Polish suit has two distinctive features. First, beauty: man's caftans, jackets, female waistcoats and skirts were always sewed from bright fabrics. Whether there was it a strip, a flower pattern or a monophonic fabric - it always differed a saturation of tones. The second feature is connected with development of a special kind of needlework - выцинанки. Differently, in большей parts of the Polish earths peasants cut out graceful patterns on a paper or a cloth. As the tool the big spring scissors for a hairstyle of sheep served. Выцинанки decorated houses, in the form of application them sewed and on clothes.
In due time the national suit has helped Poles to stand with struggle for the independence. During revolt Косцюшко the Krakow suit became a struggle symbol for freedom, peasants with its help expressed love to the native land. It is interesting, what can become such significant symbol for the modern person?
Nadejda Degtiareva,
photo by Valerii Corcimari

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