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The east - business thin, the Azerbaijan suit is even more thin, in sense of traditions and simplicity. The West can change hundreds times styles and breeds, to bring into fashion клеш or as much as possible to make narrower skirts. All comes, changes and
2009/02/02
The east - business thin, the Azerbaijan suit is even more thin, in sense of traditions and simplicity. The West can change hundreds times styles and breeds, to bring into fashion клеш or as much as possible to make narrower skirts. All comes, changes and comes back again into place. The east looks at all it with quiet advantage. Here the fashion does not vary centuries - rich silks, brocade, gold sewing and a beads. The territory of eternal values - the East - piously stores a tribute to traditions, and no momentary styles can shake ancient foundations. Certainly, east person will not disdain a suit haute couture, but what such trousers and a jacket, how not transformed by time шальвары and a dressing gown? The next brand will leave in due course in a non-existence, and simplicity of a cut and riches of furnish of east suit remains and will please heart through hundred, three hundred, one thousand years.
Own speaking, in a simple cut the philosophy of appeal of east suit also is concluded. So Azerbaijanians - skilfully combining in a dress modesty of lines and luxury of furnish put on also.
The undershirt was the most simple detail of a ladies' toilet. Short, with wide sleeves on a cuff, it was clasped at a neck on a button and sewed exclusively from gentle thin fabrics - not гоже to east woman to subject the silky skin to subject to torture of contact with a rough fabric. The bottom part of clothes has been presented шальварами, fastening to a belt by a wattled belt, and at ankles collected in cuffs. In the big cities of the Azerbaijanian to cuffs sewed thin носочки from the same fabric - such шальвары were called чахчур, them usually put on for walks by top. But it is impossible to imagine a dress without such important detail as a skirt. Azerbaijanians of a skirt respected and loved, and carried simultaneously some pieces. A petticoat, then average, and then one or several top. Here the quantity already depended on a family solvency, but the necessary minimum - three skirts - was observed by all. The top skirts were sewed from different fabrics - silks, sateen, a velvet, brocade, a thin wool. At a waist they have been collected in magnificent folds, were wide enough and long completely to close шальвары, the bottom and average skirts. As a result from under the dress footwear socks looked out only. There was a variant and the winter dress - in this case the average skirt has been quilted by cotton wool.
But also it yet all. Over all aforesaid the Azerbaijan woman carried the top shirt in shape туники with small round cut on a breast. The hem of a shirt and a bottom of the top skirts richly got off a gold lace, канителью, wattled cords, coins. In each city, village, there was a fashion and the ornament. Girls and young women carried the top shirts of bright shades - pink, violet, red, yellow, the senior generation preferred colours more darkly.
As outer clothing put on архалыг - a short caftan, подпоясанный a wide belt with a buckle. It put on top архалыг from brocade. Long cutting sleeves, the silver or gold metal plates, rich sewing of it a short coat - a semidressing gown disappeared under a shawl which, shrouding shoulders, completely hid hair. Sometimes a shawl fastened in a turban kind, but it basically in cities. Селянки preferred to put on a head a cap which kept a hairdress and did not give possibility to slip silk matter of a shawl, and then, actually, and a shawl. More simple and modest decision represented чутгу - a narrow cover under which filled plaits, throwing them thus for a back. This bandage was sewed from dark sateen and in some villages found the fans up to the XX-th century middle.
Hundred одежек the Azerbaijan women were compensated by rich ornaments. The newborn girl - and that already had pair of beads from a malefice. Every year the quantity of ornaments increased, and by twelve years the girl possessed the complete set - earrings, rings, bracelets, a beads was considered as a necessary minimum for any, let and the poorest woman. Clothes decorated coins, hooks, metal plates and buttons, hand bells and pins - the set has been limited by imagination and a condition of the family finance. Ornaments did not carry only in case of mourning and in the first 40 days after sorts. But if at the girl the quantity of jewels only increased, with the years and a birth their quantity all new children at the woman decreased, did not reach yet a minimum ordered by the status and a social standing.
The most interesting, that the most expensive and beautiful ornaments of the woman put on in a bath. Only here they could have a rest really, in plenty gossip, make impression upon the future mothers-in-law or, on the other hand, choose the suitable bride for the son - the blessing all merits and demerits of girls in a bath were all on a kind.
By the way, about men. All the same short caftan - архалыг, served as outer clothing to them too. Naturally, men of ornaments did not carry, unless the weapon has been richly inlaid, yes a horse harness. The cap was one of the most important subjects of a man's toilet, an original indicator of its man's honour and a solvency. To lose it it is inadmissible - a shame you will not be gathered. However, it already other history.
Nadejda Degtiareva,
photo by Valerii Corcimari

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