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Conservatives, Old Believers - as soon as them do not name. Red on black - than not a wedding dress? Meet on одежке … Yes as this rule at our ancestors so imperiously and over us till now was got. It and is correct: the clothes as anything other, shows th
2009/12/21
Conservatives, Old Believers - as soon as them do not name. Red on black - than not a wedding dress? Meet on одежке … Yes as this rule at our ancestors so imperiously and over us till now was got. It and is correct: the clothes as anything other, shows the social status, preferences of the person, slightly open дверку in its private world and allow to make about the stranger at least approximate impression. But it now. Our ancestors - any private world were wise, another's soul darkness, and in general, всяк a cricket … Yes, on clothes it was quite possible to define the status, a solvency too. But here character - it is already problematic. Equally put on, as the custom ordered, as grandmas and great-grandmothers bequeathed. And only prompt development of manufactories yes influence of city dandies began to destroy an established order gradually. For the short period of hundred ethnoses practically have completely refused national dresses, having preferred faceless city dresses. Among the European population longer others, perhaps, the ethnic identity in clothes were kept by Old Believers. Yes, influence of a local fashion, yes was slightly felt, the youth gradually passed to standard "uniform", but nevertheless for prayers and funeral in many old believe the community is used till now ceremonial clothes. Though also an error would be to allocate Old Believers and to name their separate ethnos but so sometimes and pulls it to make: other all have practically mixed up, at first sight with anything and are not allocated. And Old Believers, thanks to preservation of traditions and the marriages concluded in most cases between members of communities, remain the isolated group.
Once, in the beginning of XVIII century, Old Believers have come on territory of Moldova because of the persecutions caused by aversion by them of Nikonovsky church reform. Here for old believe communities е existed interdictions, it was possible to live and pray easy how conscience ordered. In XIX century in territory of Moldova was about 20 thousand Old Believers - considerable quantity on those times. Together with belief, Old Believers have brought also the traditions in clothes. Even, perhaps, not traditions, and canons. Was considered, and, as a matter of fact, it is considered till now, that the member of an old believe community in clothes should be modest, diversity strong to suppose should not, and the body should be covered, unlike heretical «латинянских» customs, bare shoulders or hands it was not authorised. The suit of the man consisted from косоворотки, подпоясанной a thong, free trousers, bast shoes or, later, a boot. The head should be covered, and the broad beard was indispensable attribute of the taken place man. Dresses though and hardly were more various, but too special щегольством did not differ. All complete set of a dress was called as change. At the woman necessarily should there was be a celebratory change and, depending on a solvency the families one or several working. The shirt entered into change, top shirts, a sundress, почепешник and a scarf. The belt was an obligatory component of the dress, from 6-8 years started to carry and an apron. Нательная the long shirt was sewed usually from thin fabrics, by the way, it longer other components of the complete set has held on in female clothes. The sundress with a current of years has a little changed. Initially the sundress was cut from slanting wedges, then the cut has become complicated, began to pawn folds. Colour of sundresses long remained dark - from dark red, dark blue to black and only by 20th years of last century began to use fabrics with not striking drawing. Very motley fabrics were not welcomed, bright colouring too - it is impossible, is not charitable itself to decorate. And here the shirt could be yellow or blue, dark blue or white. Though white shirts were put on in church under a dark monophonic sundress - so more solemnly, more decently. Cuffs on a shirt were absent, at wrists, unlike dresses of Ukrainians and Byelorussians, sleeves remained free. The head tied a scarf, it have been obliged to carry and unmarried girls. Unique distinction, that before wedding the scarf laid an edge on a back, and after - a corner. By the way, молодухи - recently венчанные wives, put on where more brightly girls that is unusual for other ethnic groups. The wedding dress is interesting also. In many settlements it was a black sundress with sewed in front from top to a hem a scarlet tape. On the parties the tape could be decorated by the gilt buttons. The shirt under a sundress relied the white. The married woman till the end of a life carried the same hairdress: two plaits started to spin from темечка, and then stacked a crown round a head.
Certainly, to traditional clothes already it is not given such great value. But choose time, go on Sunday to one of old believe villages, and to you will seem, as if you on a time machine were transferred on kind one hundred years ago.
Nadejda Degtiareva,
photo by Valerii Corcimari

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