Ukrainian cuisine: "Here to you and gifts, Athanasius Ivanovich! - she has spoken, putting on a table of a bowl and is affected clasping the as if not purposely unbuttoned jacket, - варенички, галушечки wheaten, пампушечки, товченички!" Н. V.Gogol «Evenings on farm near Dicanika».
Expensive reader! Planning creation of this book, I had an idea to make it not студийно as now it is accepted, and by culinary expeditions. It затратный, difficult and хлопотный a way. Figuratively comparing these two ways of creation of culinary books, it is possible to tell, that expedition is a live sound, and the studio is a soundtrack. The research approach allows to study and transfer to readers a variety of culinary handwritings of cooks, recipes of preparation of dishes truly traditional for this district, ways of their laying and an ornament. Travelling, it is possible to use wider spectrum of ware and a requisite for illustrations. Has inspired also that quickly enough it was possible to find adherents. And here the command is collected and ready to fight. As culinary expeditions - it also is extremely interesting, we have combined business with pleasure. The product created by us as a result is only one of Ukrainian cuisine versions. Having glanced in depths of national cookery, we have estimated its riches and неистощимость. After us there is a possibility of creation of uncountable quantity of other versions.
Search rare, earlier not published, recipes is not only research itch, but also certain mission. After all presently, time of globalisation and expansion of consumer culture, is important to keep that is saved up by centuries. The national kitchen is a same important part of a cultural heritage, as language, the literature, art.
Somehow absolutely casually routes of our expeditions have passed in places where spiritual leaders of the Ukrainian history and culture were born: Богдан Khmelnitskiy, Ivan Franko, Тарас Shevchenko … Working at restaurant «At пани Olga» on Чигиринщине, could not get off sensation, that of us incentively observes Богдан Khmelnitskiy, especially rejoicing варенухе and гречаникам. Well and if it is serious, the aura of legendary places very much helped with work. From restaurant «Wild farm» Maxim Zaliznjaka's 1000 summer oak is visible. And after all under this oak happened Тарас Shevchenko, listened to stories of local residents about гайдамаках. Antiquity legends fan also other corner of Ukraine where we could visit. It is hotel «Вежа Ведмежа» in Carpathians. Near to these places prince Svjatoslav Drevljansky, son Vladimir Svjatogo who was lost in 1015 is buried.
To us everywhere infinitely carried. We have wholly estimated, that such well-known Ukrainian hospitality. Tremendous sensations you test, when people with whom you have got acquainted half an hour back, having learnt about the purpose of your visit, leave all affairs and rush to the aid. Such relation has predetermined result. To us as to geologists, it was possible to get acquainted with novel layers, layers of truly national kitchen. The turned yellow leaflets of the writing-books which have got from mums, grandmothers and great-grandmothers were looked through. Иизвлекались the recipes which have reached us in a primordial form, without influence of modern lines of kitchen and new processing methods; such as a duck baked in a pumpkin, language, stewed in sour cream, манники, (a photo on a cover), tea on grasses, fermented baked milk on-seljanski …
Feature of our book is also that we have paid attention to sea fish. After all in причерноморском region of Ukraine it is the important part of culinary culture. For example, the Danube herring who comes on spawning from Black sea into Danube. As in the river the herring does not eat, that fat and tasty it happens in river delta, around the well-known small town Vilkovo. The mullet-loban is not less well-known. Having developed a fat in причерноморских estuaries, at a cold snap, in October - November, it directs on depth, in the sea. It catch, blocking passes to the sea a network. And as it moves flights, уловы, as a rule, the plentiful. Therefore well-known «the Barges full of a mullet» have the deep sense.
Общепризнанно, that an Ukrainian cuisine - the diversified and rich among the slavic people. It is very important, that at available regional differences, the majority of dishes possesses общеукраинскими prominent features. Thus, they fasten in a single whole such different in culture and mentality of a part of Ukraine. After all it is valid, it is necessary to drive to Ukraine, it is unimportant where: in the east or in the west, in roadside cafes and in station buffets there are вареники with a potato, fritters with a poppy, house колбаска and other вкусности.
Preparation of this book has caused many impressions. Perhaps, brightest of them is that Gogol cult of meal, delight, passion to which the considerable quantity of pages of its great products is devoted. With the same delight and passion prepare and tell about national kitchen and today's Ukrainians. Well, Gogol have begun, Gogol and we will finish: « Meanwhile the borsch smell has rushed чрез a room and has tickled pleasantly nostrils to the got hungry visitors. All have tumbled down in a dining room. A chain I will give, talkative and silent, lean and thick, it was pulled forward, and a long table зарябел by all colours. I will not begin to describe кушаньев what were behind a table! I will mention nothing neither about мнишках in sour cream, nor about утрибке which submitted to a borsch, a turkey with plums and raisin, about that sauce which swan song of the ancient cook is, - about that sauce which all moved clasped by a wine flame, that very much amused and together a scarecrow I will give. I will not begin to speak about these foods because I much more like to eat them, rather than to extend about them in conversations »… (Nikolay Vasilevich Gogol« the Story how Ivan Ivanovich has quarrelled with Ivan Nikiforovichem ».
Anatoly Tisljuk, photo by Valerii Corcimari.